2005 Gaja, Barolo, Sperss

Blueberry and ripe raspberry aromas, with hints of fresh flowers, follow through to a full body, with extra-refined yet powerful tannins and a long, long finish. Polished and well-crafted. Best after 2014. 1,500 cases made. (James Suckling)

The 2005 Sperss is another surprisingly young wine from Gaja. Explosive on the palate, with notable depth, beguiling aromatics and tons of pure drive, the 2005 is impressive. I very much like the sense of energy here. The flavors are classically dark and dense, as is so often the case with wines from Serralunga. Readers should plan on cellaring the 2005 for at least another handful of years, and even that might not be enough, as the wine is aging at a glacial pace.

Good medium red. Classic Serralunga aromas of redcurrant, menthol, tobacco and licorice. Offers much more clarity and cut than the Conteisa, and more inner-mouth perfume in spite of its more medicinal Serralunga character. Strong minerality adds to the impression of lift and structure. Plenty of hidden density here, especially impressive in the context of the vintage. Finishes broad, long and aromatic.

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate 29/04/2009

The 2005 Sperss is simply gorgeous in its layers of super-ripe black fruit, smoke, licorice, French oak, new leather and spices. As is the case with most wines in this vintage, the 2005 Sperss is relatively compact and two-dimensional yet it offers outstanding balance in an easygoing style for this wine. Gaja’s vineyards in Serralunga are some of the best-exposed plots in the zone, and that clearly was a help here. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022.

Angelo Gaja’s 2005s from the Barolo zone don’t match the level of his wines from Barbaresco, which are far more harmonious and complete in this vintage. Although Gaja is one of Italy’s most consistent producers, these wines prove that, despite his considerable gifts, he is human.