2008 Gaja, Barbaresco, Costa Russi

Good medium red. Reticent nose hints at strawberry, raspberry, mocha and smoke. Fresh and nicely delineated, with silky-sweet flavors of dark raspberry and spices. Intensely flavored wine with a captivating sugar/acid balance. Finishes with firm, building tannins and lovely juicy cut. I find this more vibrant and classic than the 2009.

Blackberries and flowers on the nose follow through to a full body, with chewy tannins and a round texture. All in finesse and length. Best after 2013.

The 2008 Costa Russi is absolutely gorgeous. Sweet dark cherries, tar, licorice and new leather are some of the aromas and flavors that take shape in the glass. The 2008 is a firm Costa Russi, with less of the seductiveness of most years, but equally fine balance. Ideally it needs a few more years in bottle, but it is striking. The finish shows terrific intensity. The typical juiciness of the site is framed by the firm tannins of the year. Everything that makes Costa Russi such an engaging wine is here, but in a slightly smaller-scaled package than in the very finest years. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2028. (Antonio Galloni)

Deep and rich, this red is fresh and vibrant, displaying mint, cherry, licorice and spice flavors. Framed in oak, both spice and tannins, with a taut structure and fine length. Best from 2014 through 2025. 150 cases imported. (BS)