2014 Poderi Aldo Conterno, Barolo, Bussia Romirasco

The 2014 Barolo Bussia Romirasco shows the merits of strict fruit selection in a challenging vintage. Only 4,620 bottles were made in order to preserve the highest quality obtainable. This is a complete and generous expression that starts off with a succession of black fruit aromas and continues to lighter notes of anise seed, tar, licorice and blue violet. The mouthfeel offers volume and texture with nicely integrated tannins. "In order to get this quality, fruit selection was key," says Giacomo Conterno.

The 2014 Barolo Romirasco is the most aromatically refined of the three Barolos I tasted from Aldo Conterno. Sweet floral notes, spice and a sheen of new oak give the Romirasco lovely aromatic lift to play off a core of succulent red cherry and plum fruit. Unctuous and ripe, the Romirasco has quite a bit to offer once the tannins soften a bit.

Delicious cooked spices on the nose, with loads of black cherry, superb vanilla spice, chunky tannins and refreshing acidity. Layered and lengthy and monumental with a compelling array of complexity even now. (RH)