2003 Domenico Clerico, Barolo, Ginestra Pajana

Domenico Clerico's 2003 Barolo Pajana has aged impeccably. Time has softened the tannins nicely, while the flavors show the signs of evolution consistent with a ten year-old Barolo from a warm vintage. Dark plum, tobacco, menthol and smoke all flesh out as the 2003 struts its stuff. The characteristic Clerico richness is present, yet the Pajana retains terrific energy. Today, the 2003 is impeccable, but it is best enjoyed over the next handful of years as it is mature and at this point offers not upside from further cellaring.

The 2003 Barolo Pajana opens with extraordinary aromatics. Sweet and long, it reveals intense layers of ripe dark cherries, chocolate, spices and menthol in a powerful, authoritative style. It is a terrific effort in this vintage, and should mature faster than the Ciabot Mentin Ginestra. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2018. (Antonio Galloni)

Focused and very clean, with crushed blackberry and spices that follow through to a full-bodied palate, with hints of jammy and cedary character. Balanced and pretty, with a long, long finish. Best after 2011. 830 cases made.(James Suckling)

Good full red, with a hint of development. Lower-toned nose shows a more roasted, liqueur-like character to the red fruit, mocha and oak char aromas. Impressively rich and expressive on the palate, but ultimately less silky in texture than the Ginestra. This comes across as drier and warmer on the back, finishing with substantial tannins. Here one can imagine the effect of heat and drought in '03.

300 m and south facing. Part of Ginestra. Light compost notes – pretty heady. Big and positive palate entry – very broad with a big impact. Hint of cough medicine – needs lots of time with a lot of dry tannins. Hard work and lots of acidity at the moment but there is fruit there too so it should all come right in the end.