2016 Ceretto, Barolo, Bussia

This is the second vintage created after Ceretto started farming in Monforte d'Alba. Specifically, the 2016 Barolo Bussia sees fruit sourced from Bussia Soprana, one of the various subdivisions of the larger Bussia cru. I loved the inaugural 2015 vintage, and my initial impression of 2016 evokes that same excitement. This is a worthy addition to the Ceretto portfolio; it's a wine that offers enormous silkiness and textural finesse. Those beautiful Nebbiolo aromas are all there—the wild cherry, licorice and rust—but I am particularly impressed by the soft elegance of the mouthfeel, which gives equal space to fruity sweetness, acidity and structure. It's not as long as the outstanding Bricco Rocche (from Castiglione Falletto), but almost.

The 2016 Barolo Bussia is explosive, vibrant and full of energy. Bright saline notes give the Barolo Bussia great tension and sheer drive. Deceptively medium in body the Bussia is also incredibly distinctive. Its rich, vivid flavors are so finely sculpted. In this range, the Bussia is distinguished by its mid-palate sweetness and that creaminess that is so common in the best Bussia Barolos. I love the vibrancy here.

Monforte d’Alba. Just mid ruby. Gorgeous spice and cherry nose. Elegant and focused and still a little closed. Super-elegant palate, which at the same time is packed with fruit. Firm but fine and long tannins and just a sigh of oak on the finish. (WS)