2017 Ceretto, Barbaresco, Asili

Ceretto enjoys a long and close relationship with the Asili cru of Barbaresco. The winery has chosen to fermented these grapes apart since the early 1970s. Their 2017 Barbaresco Asili brings you close to a sense of place. Fruit comes from a 1.3-hectare site with classic Sant'Agata marl soils. Beyond the dark fruit, much of the bouquet recalls crushed stone and iron rust, with other territory-specific aromas that are characteristic of Nebbiolo in its most naked state. You feel a touch of earthiness too, thanks to those slightly looser, open-knit tannins. Shaved truffle, dried blackberry and pressed rose seal the deal.

The 2017 Barbaresco Asili has really come together nicely, despite its recent bottling. Freshly cut flowers, mint and sweet red berry fruit are all laced together nicely. A hint of nervousness remains in the wine's feel, but that won't be an issue in another few years' time.

Barbaresco. Tasted blind. Just mid ruby. Savoury, dusty nose with brooding fruit underneath. Much less direct and a little tighter on the palate compared with their Bernadot . Elegant and a little austere and yet with plenty of fruit and ripe tannins. This has plenty of future. (WS)