2017 Brovia, Barolo, Villero

Brovia is emerging as one of the most faithful interpreters of the Castiglione Falletto territory. The 2017 Barolo Villero is very true to the vintage, showing that slightly lighter garnet appearance that is a common characteristic of this growing season. There are sure hints of ripe fruit, with wild strawberry and candied raspberry followed by sweet almond and delicate spice. That ripeness is offset and put into context thanks to the special mineral note that is ultimately what puts this wine into pretty focus. The wine is very smooth in texture, with tannins that are especially silky and subdued (a difficult achievement in this hot and dry vintage). The 5,000-bottle release Villero is more structured than the Rocche di Castiglione.

The 2017 Barolo Villero is a powerful wine with a deep center of fruit and brawny tannins that wrap it all up. Dried cherry, red plum, rose petal, mint and spice abound. The Villero is a bit nervous today, then again, it is Villero. The 2017 is an eccentric wine that today appears to be lacking in freshness.

Castiglione Falletto. 'All the crus are like twins: once the grapes are in the cellar, they are treated in the same way with fermentation in concrete, tank and ageing in large oak cask and they are also bottled at the same time for as much as possible. The differences between the wines are the result of the differences in terroir and how we manage the vineyard. Villero is normally less hot than Rocche [di Castiglione] but as it is an amphitheatre it's very protected and there was much less circulation of air and more intense heat as a result [in 2017].' Youthful mid ruby. Elegant, cool-climate kind of nose with crushed red fruit of real intensity. Minerally notes, too. Vibrant red fruit and coating tannins in equal measures. On the finish, there is a real unity of fruit and tannins. Fantastic focus and length. (WS)