2017 Brovia, Barolo, Rocche di Castiglione

This has very pretty sweetness of fruit to it, with dried strawberries and cherries, as well as walnuts and light cocoa powder. It’s medium-to full-bodied with creamy tannins and a subtle finish. Better in three or four years. Try after 2025.

A release of about 5,000 bottles, the Brovia 2017 Barolo Rocche di Castiglione offers a very elegant take on a wild and hot vintage that was not always easy to tame. The wine's aromatic profile can be described as ripe for sure because you get a generous dose of fragolino di bosco (wild strawberry), peach and orange blossom. Like the Villero, that ripeness is mitigated by the pretty mineral note that frames the bouquet. That dusty crushed limestone is more prominent in the case of the Rocche di Castiglione. However, the mouthfeel is a touch more compact and slenderer in the case of this wine. The tannins are silky and fine, but it would be nice to come back to this bottle in five years or more when the wine has had the chance to flesh out further.

Castiglione Falletto. 'As soon as the fermentation ends we take a couple of days to decide if we prolong the period the wine stays on the skins. Some years are slow, other years are faster. In 2017 you had a very minimal maceration because it depends on the year. You can only prolong the maceration on the basis of the quality of the tannins. In 2017 we did very few pumping overs, because the tannins should never unbalance the wine. The Rocche di Castiglione already seems very complete and delicious but it should get three more years.' Youthful mid ruby. Lifted perfumed raspberry fruit nose but still a little closed. Great purity of fruit. Crushed raspberry fruit palate with lots of juicy acidity and fine, powdery tannins. Very elegant and complete and great aromatic build-up of fresh red fruit on the finish. (WS)