2013 Brovia, Barolo, Rocche di Castiglione

A real heat-turner, the 2013 Barolo Rocche di Castiglione is powerful and surprisingly dense and rich. Sweet floral notes meld into a core of succulent red-fleshed fruit. This is a surprisingly ample, richly textured Rocche with huge density, creaminess and body, all qualities that are not often seen in Barolos from this site. There is a hint of Rocche sensuality in the glass, but the 2013 is holding quite a bit back in reserve. Sweet red cherry, pomegranate, mint, wild flowers and blood orange give the wine its distinctive signatures. Today, the 2013 impresses for its mid-palate depth, aromatic intensity and racy personality. Quite uncharacteristically, the Rocche is the least expressive of the single vineyard Barolos today.

The 2013 Barolo Rocche di Castiglione is made according to Alex Sanchez's traditional and time-honored approach. The wine is fermented in cement vats and aged in 40-hectoliter oak casks. The purity of fruit is what stands out most, and this is something to be admired in a cool and classic vintage such as 2013. The wine is brimming with tonic energy and verve. Tangy cassis and dark cherry segue to licorice, ash and tar.

Castiglione Falletto. Tasted blind. Youthful mid ruby. Balsamic and almost a little ethereal/herbal with a hint of bacon. Sweet, compact and youthful fruit palate that closes up quickly. Quite demanding tannins that need time to settle, but there is plenty of fruit to back it up, as well as great depth. (WS)