2010 Giacomo Borgogno & Figli, Barolo, Riserva

This red is hard to beat, though it will be better in another 10 years. Deftly balanced, this delivers cherry, berry, eucalyptus, iron and tar aromas and flavors. The well-integrated structure drives the long, complex finish. Approachable now, yet the tannins are still assertive. A classic Barolo from a great vintage. Best from 2021 through 2046. BS

The 2010 Barolo Riserva is an attractive wine with terrific freshness and energy to match its surprisingly mid-weight frame. Sweet red berry fruit, tobacco, mint and rose petal overtones reinforce an impression of vibrancy and nuance in this classy, silky Barolo Riserva from Borgogno. Frankly, it would be great to see all the Borgogno wines at this level.

I tasted the 2010 Barolo Riserva just a few weeks after the wine was bottled. Fruit is sourced from the three main vineyard sites farmed by Borgogno—Liste, Fossati and Cannubi—and assembled after vilification. The Liste cru is represented by the largest percentage in the blend. The wine is taut and aged with budding tertiary character. There are dried fruit aromas with smoke, cured tobacco leaf and tar. The mouthfeel shows smooth integration of both tannins and acidity, but the finish is very dry. This is a common characteristic I found across the three Barolo Riservas tasted here. ML