2010 Elio Altare, Barolo, Cerretta Vigna Bricco

The 2010 Barolo Vigna Bricco Cerretta will hit the market in 2016 because Altare treats this as if it were a Riserva. Fruit is from Serralunga d’Alba, am I’m not sure if the words “Vigna” will appear on the final label given the disciplinary changes that limit producers to using the name of a single vineyard on their bottles. It’s hard to beat the profound generosity and opulence of this wine with that unmistakable touch of silky elegance. This is wine of enormous presence and poise. Drink: 2018-2038. Various American importers, including: Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; Estate Wines, San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

Maturing mid ruby with narrow orange rim. Earthy, almost a little nutty on the nose with hints of fruit cake and oak. Supple, concentrated and with finely chiselled tannins, becoming really powerful on the finish. Very tactile and long and precise. (WS)