2016 Elio Altare, Barolo, Arborina

The 2016 Barolo Arborina is one of the most perfumed, gracious wines I have ever tasted from Altare. More than that, the tannins that can be a bit aggressive in young Arborina are wonderfully silky, supple and nuanced. Sweet red cherry, kirsch, spice, wild flowers, mint and white pepper all give the Arborina brilliant top notes. Medium in body and impossibly refined, the 2016 is a stunner, but it is a less obvious wine than it has tended to be in the past.

The Elio Altare 2016 Barolo Arborina sources its fruit from the family vineyard that surrounds and extends downhill from the higher perch where the Altare winery and home is located in La Morra. The wine exudes darkness and rich concentration with blackberry aromas that are followed by spice, tar and campfire ash. It ages in barrique for two years, and only 20% of that oak is new. These results are open-knit and accessible, revealing velvety texture and black fruit flavors. Production is 4,800 bottles.