2008 Fratelli Alessandria, Barolo, Gramolere

The 2008 Barolo Gramolere caresses the palate with gentle dark fruit, flowers, licorice, spices and sweet dried herbs. There is an inner perfume to the 2008 that is highly appealing. This soft, fragrant Barolo is delicious today, but should also age quite nicely. It is the most approachable of the estate's single-vineyard Baroli. Juicy dark berries and plums reappear on the vibrant finish, while the tannins are virtually unnoticeable within the realm of young Barolo. At the same time, the tannins do firm up a bit as the wine sits in the glass, so I would wait another year or two before opening the 2008. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2023. This is yet another solid set of wines from Fratelli Alessandria. Fine Barolo is never inexpensive, but these wines all deliver superb quality for the money. The single-vineyard Baroli are aged in a combination of French oak tonneaux and larger casks, an approach that works beautifully. Importer: Artisan Wine, Norwalk, CT; tel. (203) 866-4552

Good bright red. Dried flowers, mocha and mulch on the nose. Sweet, broad and full-blown, with plum, mocha and truffle flavors dominating. Finishes with big, sweet, dusty tannins and excellent length and breadth.