2014 Poderi Aldo Conterno, Barolo, Bussia Colonnello

The 2014 Barolo Colonnello is dark and inward. Succulent black cherry, smoke, leather, licorice, menthol and dark spice all run through this unctuous, super-concentrated Barolo. In most vintages, the Colonnello is a bit more aromatic and light on its feet, while the 2014 is a decidedly rich, heady wine, and yet all the elements are in the right place.

The 2014 Barolo Bussia Colonnello lags behind the other cru expressions at this early point in its drinking window. The bouquet offers less intensity, although the wine does ultimately build forward momentum and power in the mouth. Fruit aromas are well represented in the 2014 vintage, although the nose is still timid and closed at this point. This wine saw 29 months in oak, which is three months more than average, and the extended oak aging is directed at building that aromatic intensity. Anise seed and balsam herb rise to the top. Colonnello requires more oxygen and bottle aging.