2020 Egon Muller, Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett, Mosel

Very youthful, cool and pristine, this is an extremely elegant sleek and focused Kabinett. Although analytically there must be quite a bit of unfermented grape sweetness here, you barely feel it, so uplifting is the mineral freshness that drives this joyful Saar riesling. Very long finish. Drink or hold.

The “regular” 2020 Riesling Scharzhofberger Kabinett (bearing A.P. #3) leads with quince and peach accented by mint, cress, ginger and lemon, setting up an overall impression of coolness, but also of brightness, with stimulating cut and pungency analogous to that of the corresponding Braune Kupp. In the background is a greenhouse-like amalgam of flowers and foliage. The phenolic concentration here belies a vintage with relatively generous yields even as the efficacious acidity and levity defy preconceptions concerning a year marked by summer heat and drought. The multifaceted finish, transparent to wet stone underpinnings, is tongue-tinglingly vibrant. Here is a Riesling Kabinett to really grab and hold your attention even as it delivers consummate refreshment and a bit of thought-provoking intrigue to accompany its entertainment value.

There’s a bit of mountain stream in the fragrance of the Scharzhofberger Kabinett, but the primary aromas come from local orchards and citrus-fruit groves. Don’t expect an exuberance of sweet temptation on the palate, as zest and spice play at least as significant a role as residual sugar. But what makes the Scharzhofberger so unique is not the fruit, but the zest and spice it is delivered with. It’s still taut at this early stage, not so much a ‘ come hither ’ but a ‘ come up and see me sometime ’ Kabinett. (MS)