2011 Montirius, Gigondas, Confidentiel

Even better, the 2011 Gigondas Confidentiel (also a blend of 80% Grenache and 20% Mourvedre, from 85-year-old vines) gives up gorgeous seaweed, dusty earth, licorice and underbrush that’s grounded by a core of currant and black cherry fruit. Medium-bodied, pure and lively, with solid mid-palate depth and a great finish, it’s a superb 2011 to drink over the coming 5-6 years. One of my favorite southern Rhone estates, Montirius, which is run by the passionate Christine and Eric Saurel, fashions classic Gigondas and Vacqueyras from their roughly 143 acres under vine, 40 of which are in Gigondas. There is absolutely no wood whatsoever used and aging occurs all in concrete tanks. The wines show classic profiles and are always well made. The 2012s are a step up over the 2011s and offers additional richness and texture. Importers: Ruby Wines, Avon, MA; tel. (508) 588-7007; and Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620