2007 Domaine Bois de Boursan, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Cuvee des Felix

Less aromatic than the classic cuvee, yet deeper, richer and more concentrated, the 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvée des Félix is also tannic and structured, with killer notes of singed Provencal herbs, saddle leather, chocolaty dark fruits and licorice. Tasting like the essence of Provence, drink this thick, unctuous beauty over the coming 10-15 years.

Glass-staining purple. Exotically perfumed bouquet of dark berries, flowers and herbs, along with a note of olive tapenade. Very rich, palate-coating cassis and mulberry flavors are complemented by smoky garrigue and dark chocolate, with supple tannins adding support. An emphatically rich wine that stops just this side of over the top, finishing with a strong jolt of smoky Indian spices. This is already drinking well.