2010 Domaine Pierre Usseglio, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Reserve des 2 Freres

The limited production 2010 Réserve des Deux Frères is a thing of beauty! Possessing more Syrah than normal (30%) and aged in a combination of tank (20%), 1-year-old barrels (60%), and new barrels (20%), it offers up a spectacular array of raspberry liqueur, crème de cassis, graphite, smoke meats, licorice, and toast that leads into a full-bodied, gorgeously balanced wine that has both power and elegance. Beautifully fresh and focused, with clean acidity, a seamless texture, and masses of finely polished tannin, this knockout offering needs 4-5 years of bottle age, and will have 15-20 years or more of total longevity.

The 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve des Deux Freres is composed of 90% Grenache and 10% Syrah, and came in at 15.5% alcohol. In most vintages, this is basically the same cuvee as the Mon Aieul but with more press wine and the use of small new oak casks for aging the Syrah component. Approximately 30% stems were used in the fermentation. The 2010 is closed and nearly inaccessible at present. Full-bodied and massive with an inky/purple color, it reveals notes of smoked meats, blackberries, blueberries, flowers and subtle toast in the background. An enormous unctuosity and viscosity give the wine a palate gripping mouthfeel as the tannins are coated with glycerin. This brilliant wine needs at least 5-7 years of cellaring, and should keep for three decades thereafter. This branch of the Usseglio family left their home in Italy following the Great Depression in 1929 to make a new start producing wine in southern France. This estate has been on “fire” qualitatively since 1998. The cellars of brothers Jean-Pierre and Thierry Usseglio, who own approximately 60 acres of vines, are located adjacent to the ruins of a pope’s palace on the northeastern side of the village. In top vintages, such as 2010, 2009 and 2007, three Chateauneuf du Pape cuvees are produced. These include a traditional cuvee, the old vine, tank- and foudre-aged Mon Aieul and the more modern-styled Reserve des Deux Freres. Lirac is on the acquisition list of many Chateauneuf du Pape proprietors for a number of reasons: (1) they live close by; (2)the terroir is not dissimilar from that of Chateauneuf du Pape; and (3) the land is relatively cheap. The 2010 Chateauneuf du Papes are superb. Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173

The 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve des Deux Freres is a completely different animal because of the major loss of Grenache crop due to poor flowering. This blend of 65% Grenache and 35% Syrah makes it an unusual Des Deux Freres, since this wine has usually been close to 100% Grenache. The high percentage of Syrah gives the wine a very black/purple color, more blackberry, cassis and acacia flowers, with some smoked meat and Peking duck notes. Rich, full-bodied, thick, and unctuously textured, it is a more modern-styled Chateauneuf du Pape, especially with so much Syrah in the final blend. Nevertheless, it is a brilliant wine that should drink well for 20-25 years given the freshness and good acids these 2010s possess.

Dark and brooding, the 2010 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réserve des Deux Frères initiates with striking notes of tobacco, dried black fruits, white mushrooms, cured meat and crushed rocks. Fleshier and more evolved than the Mon Aïeul from the same vintage, the 2010 Réserve des Deux Frères is a full-bodied, rich and powerful red Châteauneuf-du-Pape loaded with substance and depth. If you own a bottle or two, now is the time to start enjoying them.

Very dark purplish crimson. Extremely ripe with black cherries in excess and then harsh alcohol and tannin. Extreme wine – too potent for me. (JR)