2017 Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Rouge

Shimmering magenta. Expressive aromas of fresh red berries, candied lavender and smoky minerals take on a subtle garrigue nuance with aeration. Juicy and energetic on the palate, offering appealingly sweet raspberry, cherry and floral pastille flavors that display outstanding delineation. Shows real energy and finishes long and gently tannic, with lingering mineral and floral notes.

From yields that averaged just 17 hectoliters per hectare (half the appellation's maximum), the 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape contains less Grenache than usual in the blend, being composed of 55% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 15% Mourvèdre and 5% Cinsault. Cola and chocolate notes dominate this full-bodied, silky-textured wine, adding hints of dried spices and licorice on the finish.

55% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 15% Mourvedre, 5% Cinsault - Deep black-hued colour. The nose is broad, freighted, has a deep layering of stone fruits, a suggestion of rose hip: you can stand a paddle in this, given its depth. It’s a manly start. The palate shines with its stream of mulberry, damson jam flavour, builds some gasp as it closes, the degree straining at the leash. This is very much sipping wine, with notes of kirsch and eau de vie apparent; not far from Rasteau Vin Doux Naturel Rancio, in effect. It has a tasty flourish before the finish, and its sweetness will find pleased takers. You cannot call this balanced, however. Drinking suggestion from 2022. Tasted in October 2018.

55% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 15% Mourvèdre, 5% Cinsault. Tasted blind. Heavyweight and chunky, and the aromatic range seems bound by the high alcohol. Bitter, tart finish. (RH)