2017 Rotem & Mounir Saouma, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Omnia

Deep, lurid violet. A highly perfumed bouquet evokes mineral- and spice-accented red/blue fruit liqueur, incense and floral oils, along with hints of cola and woodsmoke in the background. Sappy boysenberry, black raspberry, candied lavender and exotic spice flavors show a superb blend of depth and energy and turn sweeter through the back half. The berry and floral notes drive a strikingly long, smooth finish framed by polished, even tannins.

A blend of 80% Grenache and 10% each Mourvèdre and Syrah, the 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Omnia takes a Burgundian approach, utilizing 100% whole clusters and then ages in barrel for two years without racking before being bottled by gravity, unfined and unfiltered. The result is cedary, with wood spice notes playing a leading role at this stage of the wine's development. Yet there's elegant cherry fruit in the background, and I suspect it will come forward as the wine ages, while remaining essentially delicate and fine-boned. Cellar this for another 2–3 years, then drink it over the following decade.