2013 Rotem & Mounir Saouma, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Omnia

Vivid ruby. Explosive red berry liqueur, incense and Asian spice scents show superb clarity, with hints of floral oils and minerals providing additional lift. Silky, seamless and concentrated, offering sweet raspberry and cherry compote flavors sharpened by tangy acidity. A powerful yet graceful Châteauneuf with excellent closing focus and thrust.

The 2013 Chateauneuf du Pape Omnia is somewhat Burgundian in spirit. It's lighter in hue than many Châteauneufs and has silky tannins, yet it still offers ample body in the mouth. Reticent at first on the nose—Saouma advocates decanting his wines—with air, hints of charred coffee beans give way to raspberry fruit and hints of garrigue. This is smooth and linear in shape for red Châteauneuf, showing some dusty tannins on the extended finish.