2004 Domaine Santa Duc, Gigondas, Les Hautes Garrigues

A gem in the vintage, the 2004 Gigondas Prestige des Hautes Garrigues offers mature notes of kirsch, black cherries, saddle leather, basil and spice in a rich, full-bodied, slightly austere, serious and structured package. You can recognize the Mourvedre-driven structure and tannic spine on the palate, and this full-bodied beauty has more depth and concentration than most in the vintage. It will keep for another decade or more.

One of the top successes of the vintage is the 2004 Gigondas Les Hautes Garrigues Cuvee Prestige. Full-bodied with phenomenal intensity, an inky bluish purple color, and hints of asphalt, black truffle, blueberry, black cherry, and flowers with a hint of subtle oak, the wine has superb fruit, full body, and a beautiful, silky finish. It should drink well for 10-15 years.

Full bottle 1,345 g. The last of a case bought many years ago. Dark blackish ruby with a pale rim. There's still a bit of tannin here! Very rich, herbal nose. Definite garrigue flavours. Serve this fairly warm. I'm tasting it straight from the fridge which is emphasising the tannin. But it's long and convincing, and still marching ahead at nearly 20 years old. (JR)