2022 Domaine Rostaing, Cote Rotie, La Landonne

Remarkably soft on the palate for La Landonne, it doesn't have the same austere impact at this stage as a more classic vintage. Tannins are soft, ripe and not as intense as usual, but it does have length and ripe black fruit, with a graphite element to the tannins. Acidity is on the low side, as is the alcohol. From parcels planted at different times with an average age of 40 years.

Brooding and complex, the 2022 Côte-Rôtie La Landonne has developed splendidly since I last tasted it from barrel one year ago. Fresh violets, stemmy subtleties, pencil shaving, black cherry and crushed rock notes are all dialed up. A slice of orange rind adds another aromatic layer. Firmly structured by ripe tannins, the 2022 is a singular La Landonne, closing with drive on the nuanced finale.

Cask sample. Firm and forthright with that bloody and ferruginous note with quite striking blueberry. A vertical barrage of tannins and savoury gamey notes, the tannins are firm throughout and give real structure. So young and introverted – needs at least a decade. (AC)