2022 Domaine Rostaing, Cote Rotie, La Vialliere

Rich and powerful, with real schist character (which makes sense coming from this steep site of pure schist) as well as chocolaty, red and black fruits, the 2022 Côte Rôtie Le Viallière is full-bodied and supple on the palate, with ripe tannins. Dense, structured, and inward, this serious wine will need time. Hide bottles for 4-5 years and enjoy over the following two decades. Drink 2027-2047. One of the reference points for Côte Rôtie, Domaine Rostaing is now firmly in the hands of Pierre Rostaing, who continues the legacy of his father René. Farming is sustainable, and winemaking remains traditional, with full destemming (there might be a stem or two in some of these) and élevage in a mix of larger older and new French oak, with the new wood kept to a minimum. The range includes the classic Côte Rôtie Ampodium, which blends multiple parcels, as well as single lieu-dit bottlings from La Landonne, Côte Blonde, Côte Brune, and Le Viallière. A Condrieu and a Collines Rhodaniennes Syrah (Les Lézardes) round out the lineup.

Soft impression on the palate, though does have the Viallière elegance and violet aroma. Good concentration, slightly warming alcohol, velvety tannins. Actually quite robust in tannic weight on the finish, but acidity is fairly gentle. From 90-year-old vines, the oldest of the domaine, from which they take cuttings for replantings.

Prominent violet, black cherry, blueberry, cedar and black cherry aromas are neatly captured in the 2022 Côte-Rôtie La Viaillère. Built around a massive tannic structure, the concentrated and medium-bodied 2022 is a wine of substance, pedigree and class. Polished and round, this is shaping up to be a stellar Côte-Rôtie. Readers should note that no 2021 was produced due to spring frost.

Cask sample. Lovely nose, some violet and blue fruits as well as darker fruits beneath. The palate has tension and plenty of vertical tannins as well. Grippy and layered and attractive – youthful, stony, perfumed and tense. (AC)