2013 Andre Perret, Condrieu, Coteaux Chery

Brought up in 20% new oak, the 2013 Condrieu Coteau du Chery is a bigger, richer, more concentrated wine in the vintage than the Clos Chanson (which is the opposite from 2014). A touch unruly at the moment and in need of six to 12 months in bottle, it offers serious notes of caramelized stone fruits, apple blossom and honeysuckle to go with full-bodied richness, a big mid-palate, and plenty of cut and definition on the finish. It should be at its best from 2017-2021.

Bright yellow. Highly perfumed aromas of fresh nectarine, orange zest and violet are complicated by a chalky mineral overtone and a suave floral character. Minerally and incisive on the palate, offering vibrant citrus and orchard fruit flavors and a sexy honeysuckle nuance. Closes with a powerful jolt of chalky minerals and excellent clarity, leaving nervy orange pith and pear notes behind.

Heady and savoury at the same time. This has shades of mango juice (which may put some people off) and is hugely dramatic. Long and rich yet not flabby. Good structure. (JR)