2010 Domaine du Pegau, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Cuvee Reservee Rouge

Looking at the 2010s and a brilliant vintage for Laurence, the 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape offers up classic Pegau aromas and flavors of ripe dark fruits, garrigue, cured meats, tobacco leaf, saddle leather and hints of game. Full-bodied and beautifully concentrated, it offers a seamless, layered profile on the palate with thrilling mid-palate depth, sweet, yet substantial tannin, and a blockbuster finish that stays fresh and beautifully focused. Quite polished by this estates standards, it nevertheless screams southern France and I doubt it’s possible to have too much of this beauty in the cellar. It will absolutely thrill over the coming 2-3 decades. Drink 2016-2030. This classic, benchmark estate for traditionally made wines is run by the talented, no-nonsense Laurence Feraud and her father Paul. While I struggle to think of a bad vintage here, 2010 certainly has to rank near the top of the heap and both the Cuvee Reservee and Cuvee da Capo are truly stunning, world-class efforts. 2011 is strong here as well, and should be consumed while you wait on the 2010s to come around. The 2012s are more in the style of the 2010s, with slightly more reserved aromatics, solid purity and beautifully fresh profiles. They too should be more accessible in their youth than the 2010s. A new development for this estate is the roughly 100+ new acres of Cotes du Rhone and Cotes du Rhone Villages that have been purchased just south of Chateauneuf-du-Pape, roughly 4 miles from the domaine. Formerly called Domaine de la Jouve, it lies just outside the town of Sorgues and borders the Rhone River on its western edge. Now called Chateau Pegau, the wines from here include a white Cotes du Rhone, the Cuvee Lone, a red Cotes du Rhone call Cuvee Maclure and a red Cotes du Rhone Villages called Cuvee Setier. Laurence’s negociant label is call Selection Laurence Feraud and consists of purchased grapes from throughout the Southern Rhone. They always show traditional characters and can represent solid values. Importers: Dan Kravitz, Hand Picked Selections, Warrenton, VA; tel. (540) 347-9400; Martine’s Wine, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400; and J & R Selections, Lansing, MI; tel. (517) 393-4441

Wine Advocate October, 2013 Looking at the 2010s and a brilliant vintage for Laurence, the 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape offers up classic Pegau aromas and flavors of ripe dark fruits, garrigue, cured meats, tobacco leaf, saddle leather and hints of game. Full-bodied and beautifully concentrated, it offers a seamless, layered profile on the palate with thrilling mid-palate depth, sweet, yet substantial tannin, and a blockbuster finish that stays fresh and beautifully focused. Quite polished by this estates standards, it nevertheless screams southern France and I doubt it’s possible to have too much of this beauty in the cellar. It will absolutely thrill over the coming 2-3 decades. Drink 2016-2030. Robert Parker''s Wine Advocate 31/10/2012 The 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Reservee, which I tasted from several foudres, is essentially equivalent in quality, but it has not yet been bottled. If I understood Paul Feraud correctly, he tends to prefer the 2009, but says Laurence prefers the 2010. In any event, this is one of those “pick’em” dilemmas. The 2010 is a fabulous wine of exceptional intensity, tremendous flavor authority and full-bodied power. It is slightly more reserved than the more flamboyant 2009, but of course it is still in foudre. Very rich with lots of Provencal herb, smoky, meaty, kirsch, black currant and blackberry notes, it is a stunningly viscous, thick and rich effort with a slightly more vibrant finish. This magnificent Chateauneuf du Pape should age for three decades or more based on how well the 1989 and 1990 are maturing. This 2010 should be bottled early next year, and released in Fall, 2013. One of the bastions of traditionalism in Chateauneuf du Pape is Domaine de Pegau, long owned by the Feraud family, and now run by the charming, talented Laurence, who was exceptionally well-schooled by her father, Paul. This nearly 50-acre estate fashions some of the longest-lived, most interesting wines of the appellation. The success they have enjoyed with their estate wines has allowed the Ferauds to branch out with a small negociant operation that includes selections Laurence makes through her contacts in the southern Rhone as well as wines she co-producers with another Chateauneuf du Pape name well-known for high quality, Andre Brunel. (97-99) (96-98+)

Tasted from magnum, the 2010 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée bursts from the glass with alluring aromas of tobacco, cassis pastilles, loamy earth, smoky licorice, iodine and dried flowers. Leathery notes add a flicker of rusticity. More accessible than the Da Capo from the same vintage, the full-bodied 2010 Cuvée Réservée displays outstanding freshness on the palate, flawlessly structured with ripe tannins that have mellowed significantly since I last tasted this a couple of years ago. While I recommend another four years in a cool cellar for magnums, standard bottles should already be drinking nicely. Either way, readers can rest assured—there’s no need to rush. The 2010 Cuvée Réservée will continue to age well for many years to come.

Bright ruby. Powerful cherry and dark berry aromas are complicated by lavender, smoke and spicecake nuances. Deeply pitched blackberry and bitter cherry flavors are lifted by slow-building mineral and cracked pepper qualities and given grip by a late kick of tannins. The cherry and pepper notes repeat on the broad, clinging finish.