2014 Chateau La Nerthe, Beauvenir Blanc, Chateauneuf-du-Pape

(70% aged in stainless steel tanks and 30% in used barriques): Pale gold. A sharply focused, mineral-accented bouquet evokes fresh pear, Meyer lemon and honeysuckle, joined by a subtle touch of fennel. Juicy and energetic in the mouth, offering concentrated citrus and orchard fruit flavors underscored by a smoky mineral quality. Fleshy but focused and nervy, finishing with lingering stoniness and strong tenacity.

Another wine that comes across as much more lean and skinny than normal (my notes say “why so damn lean”), yet still outstanding, is the 2014 Châteauneuf du Pape Blanc Clos de Beauvenir offers up its normal touch of brioche and oak to go with clean, classy notes of apple blossom, poached pear and honeysuckle. Medium-bodied, racy and almost borderline tart on the palate, it holds it together and is a beautifully fresh, crisp southern Rhône white that will benefit from a year in the cellar and have a decade of longevity.