2007 La Janasse, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, XXL

Another insanely good wine that’s a legend in the making is the 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape XXL, which is almost all Grenache (there’s a splash of Mourvèdre) that spent three years in foudre and barrels before being bottled. Offering a port-like bouquet of blackberry jam, beef blood, black licorice and roasted herbs, it hits the palate with an incredible amount of fruit and texture yet always stays balanced, fresh and lively, with a finish that just won’t quit. This decadent, heady, layered and just about over the top beauty won’t be for everyone (and I’ve had bottles state side that showed more stewed and evolved characteristics), but it’s a singular, heavenly bottle of wine.

To be bottled in February, 2010, the 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape XXL is a blend of 95% Grenache and 5% Mourvedre. It reminds me of what Henri Bonneau’s utterly perfect 1990 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve des Celestins tasted like at two years of age. It has all the characteristics of the Janasse Vieilles Vignes in addition to a slightly later harvest and riper character. It gives the impression of having residual sweetness, but that is not the case as the appellation of Chateauneuf du Pape will declassify any wine with more than 0.3 grams per liter of residual sugar. The glycerin level is high, and the alcohol content must be around 16.5% as this offering is incredibly massive, rich, and obviously meant for long-term aging. I can’t wait to taste it out of bottle. There are only two demi-muids, which works out to about 2,000 bottles, so the lucky few who have an opportunity to purchase it, should not pass it up. (Not yet released) Always one of my favorite stops on my Rhone Valley trips, Domaine de la Janasse is run with incredible passion by Christophe Sabon, his sister Isabelle, and his father, who showed up nearly half naked as he was bringing in some white grapes on the torridly hot day I visited. What this family operation has achieved over the last decade is nothing short of remarkable considering the breadth of wines made, from their Vin de Pays, which are among the finest made in France, to their world-class Cotes du Rhones and Chateauneuf du Papes. While this estate is at the top of its game, it is not content to rest on the status quo and continues to push the envelope. Their 2008s are among the finest wines of the vintage, and as the following tasting notes and scores indicate, their 2007s are out of this world. The 2008 reds are surprisingly strong across the board at Domaine de la Janasse. There is no Cotes du Rhone Les Garrigues or Chateauneuf du Pape Chaupin in this vintage, but the other cuvees are all noteworthy. 2007 is the greatest vintage I have ever tasted of Domaine de la Janasse – and that’s says something given the amazing wines produced here in 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2003, 2005, and 2006. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Selections, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565

Inky purple. Wild, highly expressive aromas of kirsch, blackberry and fruitcake, with complementary notes of anise and violet. Broad dark fruit flavors show exotic spice and herb nuances, with velvety tannins providing support. Finishes sweet, sappy and long, with smoke and spice notes lingering. This wine, which fermented its sugars for two years, will be bottled in March of 2010.