2020 Paul Jaboulet Aine, Hermitage, La Chapelle Rouge

The flagship 2020 Hermitage La Chapelle was bottled in June and, as usual, comes mostly from the Le Méal lieu-dit but also includes portions from Bessards as well. Deep purple-hued, with wonderful notes of crème de cassis, graphite, incense, and spice, it hits the palate with medium to full-bodied richness, a supple, elegant texture, fine tannins, and a great finish. It doesn't have the sheer density or power of, say, the 2010 or 2015, but it shines for its purity and balance and is a gorgeous Hermitage. While the Maison Bleue is more opulent and expansive, this is the long-distance runner. Give bottles 4-6 years at a minimum and enjoy over the following two decades.

After the past several vintages, the 2020 Hermitage La Chapelle will need to add significant richness and concentration if it is to compete at that level. That said, it is still an excellent wine, with classic aromas of crushed stone, cassis, espresso and black olives. It's full-bodied, fine and silky, giving an impression of great elegance on the lingering finish.

Cask sample. Subdued but pure and profound. Tightly wound on the palate, the tannins powerful but refined, the fruit deep but underplayed. A saline edge that runs from start to finish adding length at the end. Needs to unfurl and expand but clearly has potential. (JL)

Mostly Marsanne and Roussanne selected from Chevalier de Sterimberg. First vintage was 2001, previous vintage 2014. Almond, apricot, lemon juice with a surprising zinginess. Delicious fruit, in a lighter style than most Hermitage. There's excellent mealy texture, finished with that tangy acid again. (RH)