1999 Paul Jaboulet Aine, Hermitage, La Chapelle Rouge

A ton of Syrah signature in its floral character, with welcoming campfire smoke on the opening, along with sandalwood, lavender, star anis, red liquorice. Drawn out, enjoyable, fully in its drinking window. Gerard Jaboulet and his brother Jacques owner and winemaker, ageing split between 228l Burgundy barrels and old-fashioned resin vats.

I retasted the 1999 Hermitage La Chapelle. While it is unquestionably an excellent effort, it is well below the standards of the appellation’s benchmark producers. It requires another 3-5 years of cellaring, and should last twenty-five years, but it will always lack volume and density, and possess a certain austerity. Importer: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

I retasted the 1999 Hermitage La Chapelle. While it is unquestionably an excellent effort, it is well below the standards of the appellation’s benchmark producers. It requires another 3-5 years of cellaring, and should last twenty-five years, but it will always lack volume and density, and possess a certain austerity.

From The Wine Society's cellar. The first bottle was suffering from mild to moderate TCA – more obvious on the palate than on the nose. But the second bottle, opened at lunch after the tasting, was much better. Rich, chewy and smooth. With spice and sweet, black-fruit flavours, the tannins starting to become leathery but not yet resolved. (JH)