2016 Chateau La Nerthe, Cadettes, Chateauneuf-du-Pape

Similarly colored, the 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée des Cadettes is a Grenache-heavy blend that includes 38% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre. It was not destemmed and was brought up in 28% new barrels, with the balance in foudres. It offers more cassis, graphite, spicy wood, and minerality, full-bodied richness, a deep, powerful texture, integrated acidity, and awesome structure. It's a rock star wine from this estate that won't hit maturity for a decade and will keep for 10-15 years after that in cold cellars. It’s the finest wine from this estate since the 2010, 2005, and 1998.

Fermented in tronconic vats then aged in barriques for 12 months, 70% new. Very dark, brooding and inky on the nose. The concentration of the fruit helps to tackle the large proportion of new oak used for the elevage, which has been reduced of late, to its advantage. Mourvèdre does well at La Nerthe thanks to its water sources, and it shines through in the blend. Seamless on the palate. Certified organic.

Deep lurid ruby. Intense red fruit preserve and floral pastille aromas develop suggestions of exotic spices, vanilla and woodsmoke in the glass. Sappy and deeply concentrated yet energetic as well, offering palate-staining blackberry and cherry compote flavors that are given spine and focus by a core of juicy acidity. Conveys a suave combination of richness and elegance and finishes extremely long and sweet; supple tannins sneak in slowly to add framework and grip.

The 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee des Cadettes is showing a bit more oak than the 2015 did last year, but I also tasted it a couple of months earlier in its evolution, so I expect the wine will continue to soak up the wood as it goes forward. Right now, the blend of 52% Grenache, 38% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre is toasty and cedary, marked by vanilla and baking spices. Some cola and dark berry notes emerge with airing, and it appears that the wine has the requisite weight and richness to carry the 28% new barriques used in its élevage. Give it another couple of years and drink it over the next two decades.

52% Grenache, 30% Mourvèdre, 18% Syrah. Cask sample. Upfront oak spice on the nose but sumptuous bramble fruit matches it on the palate, giving a generous, full-bodied and delicious mouthful. Fine tannin with good persistence and excellent flavour definition. (RH)