2021 M. Chapoutier, Saint-Joseph, Le Clos

The 2021 Saint-Joseph Le Clos comes from an east-facing parcel Michel purchased in the early 1990s at the urging of his grandfather, who told him it produced the finest wine of the appellation before World War II. Planted in the late 1990s, it has yielded a 2021 redolent with scents of menthol, cedar and mixed red and black cherries. Only medium-bodied, it seems less expansive on the palate than the les Granites bottling, but perhaps it's a bit more structured and firmer yet still silky and harmonious.

The 2021 Saint-Joseph Le Clos is going through a fairly reductive stage. Time in the glass gradually unlocks shy red fruits, earthy gradations and floral undertones. Round and refreshing, the 2021 delivers good flavor concentration and culminates in a finish of passable length.

Cask sample. A little reductive – dark and brooding. The palate is juicy with firm, but fine, tannins. Very smoky – bonfire and peaty smoke. Beneath, there is pepper, olive and tapenade lurking. Very tight and needs a lot of time to absorb those tannins. (AC)

Bought in 1990, once considered one of the best parcels but they had to rebuild all the terraces and replant. 0.98 ha of Syrah on coarse black mica granite. Cask sample. Intensely ripe and luscious with a smooth, saline mineral palate and an appetisingly dry finish. Sophisticated wine! But no longer inexpensive alas. (JR)