2005 M. Chapoutier, Hermitage, Vin de Paille

An irresistible Vin de Paille. A gorgeous nose of honey, quince, molasses and apricot with superb definition. The palate is just as you would expect: rich, decadent, "sticky", honeyed but with the acidity cutting through the mass of sweetness to leave it fresh in the mouth. Touch of almond towards the acacia honeyed finish. Primal, destined for long-term ageing. Tasted October 2006. Drinking 2008-2025+

Of course, Michel Chapoutier produces some very limited spectacular dessert wines. The 2005 Ermitage Vin de Paille has a dark amber color, much more noticeable acidity than the 2004, but tastes as unctuous, yet with considerable precision. The truffle notes are not nearly as intense, but the wine does exhibit plenty of honeysuckle, caramel, and marmalade notes in a full-bodied, sweet style. This wine cuvee has between 100 and 159 grams of residual sugar, and the finished alcohol is approximately 15%. Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900