2021 M. Chapoutier, Hermitage, Le Meal Rouge

Chapoutier's 2021 Ermitage le Méal, like a couple of the other parcel selections this vintage, seems just a bit cedary compared to other recent vintages. Red raspberries and ripe cherries lead the way in this medium to full-bodied effort. It's silky and refined, with some drying wood tannins and crisp, cranberry-ish acids on the finish. It requires a palate realignment after the past few years.

Picked 16 August, always the first vineyard to be harvested. 2 ha of Marsanne, some more than 50 years old on alluvial soils. The large pebbles help retain heat. Deep gold. This offers honey and tension and a glorious cocktail with floral, blossomy notes. Complete with a lightly bitter note and already wonderful. Long and glorious. You could lose yourself in this. Gorgeous when first tasted but after L’Ermite it admittedly tastes blowsier… (JR)