2022 M. Chapoutier, Ermitage, De l'Oree

This has the characteristic breadth and fat of De l'Orée, with a surprisingly bright and piercing acidic line. Rich, ripe mango, with a touch of pineapple, the alcohol and oak are both surprisingly well balanced for a vintage like 2022. Not the most mineral or fine perhaps, but very good. From 60-year-old vines in the lieu-dit Les Murets at the top of the hill on heavy, water-retaining soils.

The 2022 Ermitage Blanc De L'Orée radiates pronounced lemon flesh, yellow apple, cedar and honeysuckle aromas, complemented by linden blossom and jasmine adding a floral complexity. Highly concentrated yet capturing flawless elegance through lifting acidity, the 2022 is an immediately alluring De L'Orée, whose pristine flavors stay long after the wine has left the palate. Yet another magnificent white from Chapoutier that’s totally worth the chase.

Cask sample. Custard apple and crème pâtissière on the nose. The palate is dense and concentrated with a core of honeysuckle, almond, cashew and stone fruit. It seems a little backwards and introverted now, yet has all the potential to evolve over the years. A mineral streak of saline acidity comes through on the finish. (AC)