2006 M. Chapoutier, Ermitage, De l'Oree

Much more focused and tight than the Le Méal, the full-bodied 2006 Ermitage De L'Oree offers an incredible array of caramelized stone fruits, brioche, honeysuckle, and orange blossom, with a liqueur of rocks-like minerality on the finish. This pure, precise, chiseled monster of a wine will evolve for another 20 years or more.

Nearly perfect, the beautiful 2006 Ermitage Cuvee de l’Oree offers up sensational aromas of quince, honeyed hazelnuts, white currants, flowers, and a liqueur of crushed rocks. Incredible glycerin as well as zesty acids give this enormously-endowed, thick, massive wine surprising lift and laser-like focus. It should drink well for half a century! While Michel Chapoutier produces some of the world’s greatest wines from single parcels of old vines spread throughout the northern and southern Rhone (see my ecstatic reviews of his 2007 and 2006 Chateauneuf du Papes in issue #179), he also has an impressive portfolio of value-priced wines that are often over-looked when this impressive producer is discussed. Following are some top-notch picks that all sell for exceptionally fair prices. Chapoutier has not achieved as great as success in Cornas as he has in the other northern Rhone appellations, although his Cornas wines get better with each vintage. There are four extraordinary single vineyard white wines, all of which are among the greatest dry white wines of the world. While all of them can be drunk young, they are meant for extended cellaring. Made from very small yields, they represent the essence of a varietal as well as a vineyard site. As the following notes demonstrate, 2006 was one of the greatest vintages for white wines at Chapoutier. The single vineyard selection parcellaire red wines range in production from 500 to nearly 1,000 cases. 2007 is a very good vintage for these selections, but 2006 has an edge. It is reminiscent of 1996 because of the wines’ freshness and acid levels, but Chapoutier’s 2006s are even more concentrated than his 1996s. Chapoutier’s four 2006 cuvees of single vineyard Hermitage are exquisite. Most of the yields were between 10 and 20 hectoliters per hectare, and the wines are extravagantly rich. The 2006 and 2007 luxury cuvees of Chateauneuf du Pape Croix des Bois and Chateauneuf du Pape Barbe Rac were reviewed in issue #179. They are all astounding wines, especially in 2007 Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900

The way this wine stood up in the glass over many hours really impressed me. Initially it seemed a little bit fat and flabby but in fact it kept what nerve it had right till the end of dinner. I tried to sip it after rather than before the Montrachet, which was much drier and slightly leaner (these are relative terms). Bright gold with a lightly sulphidey nose. Strong honey and honeysuckle flavours. Low acid but great riches on the palate. Full body with Marsanne fat undertow but, just, enough energy and vitality. Very rich and a great partner for cod and sweet onions. (JR)