2022 M. Chapoutier, Ermitage, Le Pavillon

Plum and damson compote, star anise and soy on the nose. This is fresh and lithe, with marked acidity and a great explosion of flavour; bright as a meteor. Not as long as some vintages on the finish, but certainly makes an impression. The pH is at 3.6 naturally through concentration, and nearly 14% alcohol. Remarkably athletic in acid and tannin for a 2022. From lieu-dit Les Bessards.

The pristine 2022 Ermitage Le Pavillon stands tall next to both the 2021 and 2023 vintages. Vividly displaying ripe black fruit, licorice, pencil shaving, crushed violet notes and a flicker of mocha, the full-bodied and concentrated 2022 shows even more richness on the palate than the Le Méal from the same vintage. Round and generous, this is a Le Pavillon for the hedonists, gracefully winding down with a long and savory finale.

Crafted from vines planted on the east part of the lieu-dit Les Bessards on granite soils with some quartz, named granite de Tournon, the 2022 Ermitage Le Pavillon unwinds in the glass with aromas of flowers, dark cherries, ink and lilac mingled with carnal/animal-like notes. Medium to full-bodied, dense and structured, it's firm and rich with stringy tannins and a rustic, almost dry finish.

Cask sample. Meaty and gamey notes on the nose. Violet and spice as well as dried flowers. The palate is dense and saturated with very firm tannins, this needs time to settle. There is fruit, acidity and spice as well. Gamey and meaty with such a core of acidity through the middle of the wine. Leave for at least 10 years. (AC)