2012 M. Chapoutier, Ermitage, Le Pavillon

Pure perfection in Syrah, the 2012 Ermitage Le Pavillon comes from the pure granite soils of the Les Bessards lieu-dit and was brought up in around 30-35% new demi-muids. This blockbuster yet magical wine offers everything: incredible aromatics, huge richness and intensity, no sensation of weight or heaviness, and a finish that just goes on and on. With lots of sweet dark cassis and raspberry fruit, it has an almost Méal-like sexiness yet shows more and more minerality as well as tannins on the finish. It’s a quintessential, awesome, perfect wine to enjoy over the coming 20-25 years.

Sharing some similarities to the le Meal (yet its from a very different terroir), with its full-bodied, decadent, heavenly profile that somehow stays pure, poised and elegant, the 2012 Ermitage le Pavillon (767 cases) offers an extraordinary perfume of cassis, raspberries, crushed flowers, powdered rock and smoked earth. Coming all from the granite soils of the les Bessards lieu-dit, which produces some of the most muscular, concentrated wines on the planet, this serious 2012 is more approachable than either the 2009 or 2010, yet certainly is at the same level of quality. Give it 6-7 years in the cellar and enjoy it through 2042.

This has terrific energy, with zesty loganberry, blackberry and boysenberry coulis flavors, pushed by a grippy dark ganache note. Bramble and anise accents fill the background, with a long, racy, acidity-driven finish that lets the fruit play out wonderfully. Should cruise in the cellar. JM

(made entirely from fruit grown in Bessards, from vines that range from 40 to 60 years in age; 25% new oak): Saturated purple. Pungent smoke- and mineral-accented aromas of dark berry preserves, dried cherry, pipe tobacco, licorice and incense. Stains the palate with intense blackcurrant and bitter cherry flavors, becoming deeper, sweeter and spicier with air. Packs a very serious punch but comes off as lithe and precise, finishing with excellent length and silky, slowly emerging tannins. Josh Raynolds