2013 M. Chapoutier, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Barbe Rac

What should be up with the crème of the vintage, the 2013 Châteauneuf du Pape Barbe Rac is smoking stuff. Made from 100% Grenache and coming from less than a half-ton per acre (which is just about nothing), it sports a deep purple color to go with fabulous strawberry, blackberry, dried garrigue, cured meats and earth. About as seamless and elegant as they come in the vintage, it has medium to full-bodied richness, ultra-fine tannin and beautiful length. It should be reasonably approachable on release, and evolve for over a decade.

Lurid ruby-red. Complex, highly perfumed scents of ripe raspberry, boysenberry and incense, with hints of allspice and white pepper gaining power as the wine opens in the glass. Juicy, seamless and alluringly sweet, with nervy red fruit flavors showing excellent depth. This suave, vivacious wine finishes with well-integrated tannins and wonderful purity and length.