2016 le Clos du Caillou, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, La Reserve

A 60-40 blend of Grenache and Mourvèdre from the lieux-dits of La Guigasse and Pignan, I'm happy to say the 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape La Reserve has come in at the top end of my expectations for it. They produced 6,136 bottles of this elixir, which offers magical aromas of mixed berries, roses and exotic spices. It's full-bodied and weightless at the same time, boasting waves of silky, caressing, seductive tannins and an incredibly long finish. Despite its light touch, it seems assured of evolving over a couple of decades. Sheer gossamer perfection!

Full bright-rimmed ruby. Ripe red and dark berries, incense, Moroccan spices and candied flowers on the expansive, seductively perfumed nose; a smoky mineral accent adds vivacity. Sappy, alluringly sweet and penetrating on the palate, offering pure, deeply concentrated cherry, Chambord, cola and spicecake flavors that become more energetic as the wine opens up. Densely packed and seamless in texture, finishing with remarkable power, resonating spiciness and building but discreet tannins. As is the case with its Quartz stablemate, this wine is among the standouts of this exceptional vintage.

55% Grenache, 45% Mourvèdre. Cask sample. Chewy, tight tannin, loads of structural intensity here, which seems to overwhelm the fruit flavour. Warm, rasping finish. Doubtless intended to age, but risks losing fruit before the formidable structure softens. (RH)