2010 Henri Bonneau, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Reserve Celestins

Schedule to be bottled next week (I suspect it will be in bottle by the time you read this), the 2010 Châteauneuf du Pape Reserve des Celestins is a sensational effort. Deeper, richer and more concentrated than the Marie Beurrier, it reveals an unusually inky ruby/purple color to go with overflowing notes of kirsch liqueur, roasted meats, crushed flowers, garrigue and just about every other Provençal spice you could name. Full-bodied, beautifully concentrated, layered and a blockbuster-styled effort, it should surpass the 2007 and possibly rival the 1990. This is a tour de force in Châteauneuf du Pape!

The 2010 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réserve des Célestins is nowhere near its prime drinking window, demanding several hours in the glass to start revealing some of its nuances. Brooding and sophisticated, it gradually releases ripe blackberry, wild strawberry, dried lavender, tobacco, forest floor and a little beeswax. Oddly, there’s also a touch of mocha, yet Bonneau always claimed to use old oak with a minimum of four years' age for his red Châteauneufs. Closing with compelling length on the powerful finish, the 2010 is a roaring Réserve des Célestins that will reward patience.

This is a big wine, driving with strong acidity and tannins that provide a firm, dry base. This is taking on some earthy, spicy character with alcohol that is a touch high. Still needs time. Leave until at least 2022.