2020 Chateau de Beaucastel Roussanne Vieilles Vignes, Chateauneuf-du-Pape

A little more reticent on the nose for now compared to other recent vintages – it's possibly entering a closed phase, in which case leave until 2032; however, it shows some attractive fresh pear and powdered ginger notes. Rich on the palate, this has incredible depth and power, with great mineral drive on the finish. This will be one of the great vintages of Roussanne Vieilles Vignes, and it will last for decades. From a single parcel of Roussanne, planted in 1919 and grown biodynamically. Aged in one-year-old demi-muids and barriques. Maximum of 6,000 bottles per year.

Even better, the 2020 Châteauneuf Du Pape Roussanne Vieilles Vignes comes from a single parcel of very old vines and is 100% Roussanne brought up in barrel. It too is medium to full-bodied and incredibly concentrated, with brilliant white currants, green almond, honeyed mineral, and spice-driven aromas and flavors. The balance is just about perfect, as is the purity of fruit, and this incredible white is one of the top releases in the vintage. As I’ve written in the past, it’s the Montrachet of the Southern Rhône and can evolve for decades in cold cellars. As usual, I was able to taste the Perrin family’s Gigondas releases during my visit to Château de Beaucastel, and have included those releases here as well. This estate continues to fashion a classic, age-worthy style of wine, largely based on Mourvèdre. Looking at the latest releases reviewed here, the 2020s show the pure, fresh, yet still nicely concentrated style of the vintage. The 2020 whites are brilliant, with slightly cooler, more vibrant profiles, which is the style of the vintage. As to the reds, both 2020 and 2019 are unquestionably brilliant vintages here, with the nod I think going to the 2019s.

From vines planted in 1909, the 2020 Chateauneuf du Pape Roussanne Vieilles Vignes is entirely barrel-fermented and matured, half in new oak from Chassin and half in second-use steam-bent barriques from Dargaud & Jaegle. It's much like the regular Beaucastel CdP Blanc, but more—and sometimes more really is more. With waves of honeyed pear and pineapple fruit folded together on the full-bodied palate, it's creamy and rich, yet vibrant and refreshing on the long, luxurious finish. The aging curve of this wine is never easy to predict, as some vintages close up tight soon after release only to open up after several years in the cellar, while others seem to exude opulence throughout their life.

Wonderful nose of acacia honey and ripe apricot. Super-concentrated with great textural complexity, this white Chateauneuf is built on a lavish scale, but is so precise and glides off into the far distance. 100% roussanne from ancient vines. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.

The 2020 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc Roussanne Vieilles Vignes is made from 70 to 90-year-old vines and aged a little bit less than a year in a combination of new and old oak demi-muids. A fragrant perfume of spring blossom, jasmine, lemon peel, lime flesh, yellow apple, pear, cedar, pastry and a splash of verbena tea usher in, spoiling the palate with stunning concentration and outstanding purity of fruit. Full-bodied, rich and balanced, the sapid finish goes on for well over a minute. Make no mistake about it: the Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc Roussanne Vieilles Vignes is one of the best whites in the entire Rhône Valley and can easily compete on the world stage of pristine dry whites.

Old vines harvested slightly overripe. The grapes are hand-picked in small cases and sorted, pneumatically pressed. Settling of the juices and fermentation (30% in oak, 70% tanks). Bottled after 8 months. The Perrin tech sheet notes: 'This exceptional wine must be drunk within 3 years or after 15 years'. Nutty, creamy, mealy aroma from both the oak and the fruit. Sour freshness with nutty pears and a finely dry texture, as if there were some tannin here. Powerful but elegant with that delicious marzipan aftertaste. Great length. Savoury even in youth. So distinctive. (JH)