2005 Alain Voge, Cornas, Les Vieilles Fontaines

One of the wines of the vintage is Voge’s 2005 Cornas Les Vieilles Fontaines. Coming from a single plot of granite soils, this inky colored beauty offers incredible purity in its plum, blackberry, licorice and violet-laced aromas and flavors. Showing more and more minerality with time in the glass, this full-bodied, rich, thrillingly concentrated Cornas is reminiscent of the 2010 with its notable freshness, building tannin and blockbuster length. It will have 20-25 years of longevity.

Plush, with a modern touch of mocha and incense leading the way for thickly layered plum sauce, tobacco, fig paste and licorice notes. The long, mouthfilling finish pumps out fruit and mineral notes thanks to riveting acidity. Best from 2009 through 2023. 50 cases imported. JM

Deep red. Seductively perfumed aromas of cherry-vanilla and raspberry preserves are deepened by licorice and smoky herbs. Very fresh in the mouth, with bright raspberry and kirsch flavors, silky tannins and slow-building floral pastille character. Becomes sweeter on the long, clinging finish, with the rich fruit completely sucking up the tannins. JR Jan 2008

The domaine’s oldest vines at more than 80 years, planted on south-east-facing granite soils; this is made separately in only some vintages. Deep cherry red. I just cannot believe this is 2005. The nose has incredibly vibrant, almost primary bramble fruit. Maturity shows a little more on the palate in that leathery flavour but it is scented on the mid palate too and still firmly textured. Chewy, dry and long. Needs food to bring out the best. (JH)