2017 Alain Voge, Cornas, Les Chailles

Lurid violet color. Intense aromas of cassis, blackberry, olive and licorice are complemented by a smoky mineral topnote and a hint of smoky bacon. Chewy and subtly sweet, offering concentrated dark berry preserve, licorice pastille and chewing tobacco flavors and a spicy jolt of black pepper. Finishes very long and smoky, with chewy tannins and a building note.

Coming largely from the more fertile soils at the bottom of the slope, Voge's 2017 Cornas les Chailles is a silky, approachable version of Cornas, with just a bit more depth and structure than the Saint-Joseph. Enchanting herbal-floral notes appear on the nose, while the palate offers hints of crushed stone and blueberry fruit. It's medium to full-bodied, finishing long and violet-laden.

Organic (in conversion). Cask sample. Tasted blind. Well-integrated oak spice on the nose, rich and almost jammy fruit on the palate, but with an appetisingly savoury finish. Fine-grained tannins, refreshing acidity, moderate length – a good example of classic Cornas with modern succulence. (RH)