2015 Domaine Didier Dagueneau, Pouilly Fume, Silex

From almost 4 ha of flint-scattered clays around the mound of St Andelain, this is light gold in colour with a fine-meshed weave of green plant and soft spring leaf scents, full of copse coolness. In the mouth, it’s a seamless pool or well of those same green plant and leaf notes fleshed out with quiet green orchard and citrus fruits. As ever, a remarkably unshowy, undemonstrative, stealthy wine, despite its fame and the reputed showiness of the variety: all is held in check by those clinging, cossetting cool clays. Give it time in decanter, glass or mouth and you’ll see figures and allusions quietly stirring.

Buttery, creamy, very soft and smooth. Ripe, complete and generous and perhaps quite high in alcohol? Even so, there is so much going on here. Compelling. (RH)