2017 Clos Rougeard, Saumur-Champigny, Les Poyeux

Set for release in November 2022, the 2017 Les Poyeux is a delightful wine. While waiting for the winemaker, I was left with a glass of this in the chalky cellars and I really struggled to find anything wrong with it. This is a blend of two parcels within the Poyeux vineyard. It's as if you are drinking a cloud of Cabernet Franc, that floats along in your mouth, before the mouthwatering acidity flows forth. This light to mid-weight wine has incredible density despite its delicacy. The purity of fruit is impressive and shows red cherry, black olive, savory and tea leaf-like tannins. Typically a more accessible wine than Le Bourg, you could drink on release but it will go on and on.

Bright and gourmand, the 2017 Saumur Champigny Les Poyeux exhales aromas of prune, violet, flowers and pepper, followed by a medium to full-bodied, juicy and long structure, finishing dry and rustic due to the presence of Brettanomyces. Nonetheless, it presents a fresher and more fruit-forward profile than its 2018 counterpart, rendering the finish more relaxed.

Elegant and poised with red-berry and floral notes. As is often the case, a burgundian feel. Huge intensity on the palate, the tannins tight and firm but fine as well. Lovely balance. Should age well. (JL)