2020 Mas de Daumas Gassac, Rouge, Saint-Guilhem-le-Desert

The 2020 Rouge is loaded with potential. Pronounced spice-box, garrigue , cassis, crushed violets and a dash of cardamom compose the complex aromatic profile. Offering a smooth mouthfeel of polished tannins, the medium to full-bodied 2020 packs excellent flavor concentration and brings it home with a long finale. It says: watch me.

The newest vintage of this classic Languedoc red is a solid effort. The 2020 IGP Saint Guilhem le Desert is 71% Cabernet Sauvignon, with no more than 6% of any other single grape variety present. Naturally, cassis elements lead the way, backed by black cherries and herbal notes, plus a subtle, barely noticeable layer of cedar tying everything together. It's medium to full-bodied, streamlined and smooth in feel, with a long, silky, elegant finish.

71% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Syrah, 5% Tannat, 4% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot, 2% Pinot Noir, 2% Malbec, 4% rare varieties (Abouriou, Nielluccio, Montepulciano, Saperavi, Carmenère, Tempranillo). 50% is aged in oak barrels, only one in seven new, and the balance in stainless steel. Total barrel ageing between 8 and 13 months. Bright crimson. Mellow, resolved nose. Rich, spicy and confident with a little tannin still evident but a great balance between the complex fruit and acidity. There’s a hint of what you would smell walking round a port lodge, though this definitely isn’t too sweet. Should develop well. (JR)

28% Viognier, 23% Petit Manseng, 20% Chardonnay, 12% Chenin Blanc and 17% a mix of rare varieties. Banana, melon, pineapple on the nose. Much less confected than expected on the palate, thanks to a line of acidity keeping the palate tart, and a pithy, apricot-skin flavour (from the Viognier?) Does a great job of combining the qualities of the main varieties – texture from Chenin, stone fruit from Viognier, acid from Petit Manseng. Finishes with attractive orange-peel notes. Way better than most Côtes du Rhônes. Not just a wine of terroir, this is good winemaking. (RH)