Ulysse Collin, Les Pierrieres Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut, Champagne

There are 5,400 bottles of the NV Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Les Pierrières (2017), disgorged in February 2022 after 48 months on the lees—and this is the last time there will be two disgorgements, as from next year onward, Les Pierrières will systematically see 48 months' tirage before disgorgement. Wafting from the glass with scents of confit citrus fruit, lemon zest, spring flowers, almond paste, pastry cream and wet stones, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and precise, with terrific cut and tension, concluding with a long, saline finish. An additional year before disgorgement delivers a less primary, more integrated, seamless Champagne.

Dosage 2 g/l. Based on 2010. Rather creamy and full for a young, minimally dosed champagne. Lovely nose but the palate is still a little gawky and astringent. (JR)