2002 Delamotte, Blanc de Blancs Vintage

eRobertParker.com November, 2013 Since around two-thirds of Delamotte production represents their basic Brut; another 25% their non-vintage Blanc de Blancs; and there is a bit of rose, too, it follows that their 2002 Brut Blanc de Blancs represents a rare bird indeed; and from its being on the market now (in the form of a late-2012 disgorgement) you can recognize how little hurry the house is to release their vintage bottling. Already in the nose, hints of walnut and pistachio oils point toward the bittersweet, subtly smoky, faintly toasty aspect of a bottling that at the same time harbors pure and succulent apple and pear wreathed in heliotrope and orange blossom inner-mouth perfume. A vividly scallop-like and salivary gland-milking sweet- saline, mineral-animal savor opens the floodgates of the salivary glands, and for some of us, perhaps even the tear ducts. This finishes with extraordinary persistence and alliance of richness with levity. Especially considering that, in a vintage of this quality, Salon was not giving up their fruit to help inform this vintage Delamotte, it represents an outstanding accomplishment; and what's more, a quite stunning value for its genre.

Mesnil, Oger, Cramant, Avize. Current vintage. The Delamotte Collection releases started five years ago. Same wine as was released earlier but kept on lees 15 years. Disgorged 2017. Dosage 5 g/l because such a rich vintage. Bigger bubbles again. Tight nose. Delicate and just a little bitter note on the end. Very fine with juicy Seville orange notes. Quite concentrated after it opened out in the (JR) glass.