2004 Louis Roederer, Cristal Vinotheque Brut

Disgorged in 2019 with a dosage of six grams per liter, the 2004 Cristal Vinothèque spent 20 years in the Louis Roederer cellars. This aging process involved the bottles being stacked horizontally on their sides, followed by a period stored neck-down to limit oxygen exposure while also reducing the surface area of lees in contact with the wine. After this, the Champagne underwent an additional six years of aging post-disgorgement. Lecaillon explains that this effort is to “push the wine with longer maturation into a more generous expression, not sacrificing salinity in the process.” Bursting from the glass with a deep bouquet of roasted nuts, candied lemon peel and brioche mingling with aromas of smoke and honeysuckle, it is richer and more dramatic aromatically, while simultaneously retaining a cool, racy profile. Medium to full-bodied, textural and multidimensional, it concludes with a long, chalky finish. With only 2,000 bottles available, it will be rather difficult to find; but those with disposable income who want to experience Cristal at its most generous expression should not hesitate to track down a bottle, as it stands as one of the most precise releases of the Vinothèque program so far and surpasses the regular 2004 Cristal in its depth and completeness.